Unión

This mate has pleasantly astringent citrus notes and bolder grassy-hay undertones. Not your typical Classical Argentine mate. Aromas of light tobacco, fresh sawdust, Cheerios and Kix cereal, Bisquick pancake batter, and steaming oatmeal drizzled with maple syrup, there are layers to this mate’s homely bouquet.

The body is a solid medium, tiptoeing into the light full body region. With a healthy amount of powder and stems, the cut composition is relatively heavy for an Argentine mate. Such a cut produces a rich body with natural, honey-like sweetness, creating a respectable medium cycle when drinking from the traditional gourd.

Unión has personality, that’s for sure. More astringent than bitter. More citrusy than grassy. Some tart and sour layering on the finish. All these elements play well together, creating a harmoniously wild expression of vibrant flavors atop a grassy base —something you’d expect more from a Paraguay brand, i.e.

But the party ends abruptly after about a half a liter of fun. There’s hardly any transition period between the strong opening act and the denouncement. It’s more like a surprise blackout. It goes from great to dismal—perhaps the only downfall for this brand, which can be easily dismissed when considering the preceding delightful experience.

Overall, this is a fun mate to experience. If you’re expecting a long cycle mate — one that retains flavor throughout the entire liter — look elsewhere. Though, if you enjoy citrusy and briney flavors, with a little bite, look no further.